Uno dei grandi della Borgogna. Credito: Domaine Dujac
Il maestro della Borgogna Clive Coates MW ti dice tutto ciò che devi sapere sul Domaine Dujac, insieme a note di degustazione storiche sui vini delle migliori annate, come parte di una serie che ripercorre i profili domaine dai libri più recenti di Clive.
A differenza della maggior parte delle tenute borgognone, sia che imbottigliano da alcuni decenni o che abbiano intrapreso questa strada solo di recente, il Domaine Dujac è una creazione recente. Risale al 1968. Jacques Seysses, il fondatore, ha poco più di 70 anni e ora è passato in secondo piano a favore dei suoi figli Jeremy e Alec e della moglie di Jeremy Diana, un chimico specializzato nel vino (enologo). Lavorano in trio ormai da alcune annate.
Le cose sono cambiate? Dobbiamo aspettarci differenze più radicali nei vini rispetto ai Dujac di un tempo? Sono andato a Morey-St-Denis per scoprirlo.
Il padre di Jacques Seysses, un uomo ricco a capo di un'azienda che produceva biscotti, era un noto conoscitore di enogastronomia, di casa in ristoranti a tre stelle, con una raffinata cantina tutta sua.
Scorri verso il basso per vedere le note di degustazione e i punteggi di Clive
Jacques ricorda da adolescente le visite a ristoranti a tre stelle a Parigi e altrove.
'Non posso dirti esattamente quale sia stata la prima grande bottiglia di vino che ho avuto', dice, 'ma molto probabilmente era un Rousseau o un Gouges di una delle grandi annate che avevamo subito dopo la guerra.
Quello che ricordo è stata una visita a La Tour d’Argent. Mio padre scelse una bottiglia di La Tâche 1938 (non una grande annata). Era di colore quasi rosato. I nostri ospiti sono rimasti piuttosto scioccati. Ma l'aroma e l'intensità di questo vino erano notevoli. Questo deve essere stato nel 1958 o giù di lì, quando avevo 17 anni. Ricordo che mio padre ordinò che il resto delle scorte fosse riservato per lui. '
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Vedi le valutazioni dei vini di Clive per le migliori annate di Dujac:
Dove acquistare il libro 'My Favorite Burgundies' di Clive Coates MW:
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