Barolo 2009,
Tom Maresca è rimasto decisamente deluso da questa degustazione del 2009, citando l'incapacità dei produttori di vino di affrontare la difficoltà della vendemmia come una delle ragioni di questa presentazione 'triste'.
'Pochi 2009 hanno giustificato l'ottimismo sulla loro longevità e la maggior parte dei produttori ha parlato del 2009 come un'annata da bere a breve termine'
L'annata 2009 di Barolo metterà a confronto i consumatori con alcune dure verità e alcuni aspri vini. Ho assaggiato ben oltre 200 esempi di Barolo 2009 al Nebbiolo Prima di Alba a maggio. La maggior parte dei vini in offerta nei cinque giorni della manifestazione non solo mancava del classico colore del Nebbiolo, ma non mostrava quasi nessun aroma o sapore del Nebbiolo.
Amo il Barolo e rispetto e ammiro molti dei suoi produttori per la loro dedizione e la chiarezza della loro visione. Tuttavia, devo dire che in questa annata la performance di molti di loro non è stata semplicemente carente, è stata triste.
Ovviamente c'erano delle eccezioni: diversi produttori - Giacomo Fenocchio, Aldo Conterno, Prunotto, per alcuni - risultarono Barolo abbastanza bevibile. Alcuni - in particolare Pio Cesare e Massolino-Vigna Rionda - hanno persino fiducia nel potenziale di invecchiamento del loro vino. Quell'opinione è stata spesso ripresa da commercianti e acquirenti, che hanno assaggiato una selezione di questi vini una settimana prima dei giornalisti, e con i produttori (non ciechi). Ma al mio palato - e secondo l'opinione di molti giornalisti con cui ho parlato - la maggior parte dei produttori di Barolo sembra aver fortemente sottovalutato la difficoltà di questa annata. Pochi 2009 hanno giustificato l'ottimismo sulla loro longevità e la maggior parte dei produttori ha parlato del 2009 come un'annata da bere a breve termine.
Giacomo Conterno, della cantina Aldo Conterno nel comune di Monforte, è stato uno dei produttori più schietti. Ha detto: 'Il 2009 è stata l'annata di un viticoltore. Alla fine di agosto, alcune viti [Nebbiolo] erano già quasi mature, e alcune erano completamente acerbe - quasi 30 giorni di differenza tra di loro. Quello che hai fatto al riguardo ha determinato il tipo di vino che hai prodotto. 'Il giudizio solitamente ottimistico del Consorzio sulla vendemmia di quest'anno è molto prudente:
'L'annata 2009 sarà ricordata anche per il suo andamento di maturazione irregolare ... In termini di maturazione tecnologica, l'annata può essere collocata tra il 2003 e il 2007 ... Per quanto riguarda la maturazione fenolica ... i dati riscontrati nelle uve erano paragonabili al 2003 ... in questa annata i risultati non sono sempre stati migliorati ritardando la vendemmia. '
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Scritto da Tom Maresca
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