Un vigneto di corde intrecciate a El Valle de la Orotava, Tenerife
Surreale è una parola che a volte vedi usata per descrivere i vigneti delle Isole Canarie. Ed è vero che c'è qualcosa di inquietante, quasi da incubo, diciamo, in un vigneto allevato con il tradizionale metodo del cordon trenzado a El Valle de la Orotava, sull'isola più grande dell'arcipelago di Tenerife.
Disposte orizzontalmente a pochi centimetri dal suolo, le viti nodose e intrecciate, molte delle quali vecchie di oltre un secolo, alcune di 200 anni, sembrano strisciare intorno ai vigneti come serpenti di legno intrecciati, che si estendono fino a 15 m dalla madre tronco - uno spettacolo reso ancora più inquietante quando avvolto nella nebbia che è una caratteristica così frequente di questo clima subtropicale.
Non meno peculiari, sorprendenti e onirici sono i vigneti di Lanzarote, che richiamano alla mente qualche immaginario esperimento post-apocalittico per fare il vino sulla luna. Qui le viti vengono scavate nello spesso strato di cenere vulcanica di pícon che copre l'isola, ogni vite arbustiva protetta dai venti che soffiano dall'Atlantico essendo piantata in fosse ( buchi ) circondato da bassi muri semicircolari in pietra ( cappotti o soprabiti).
Quindi sì, surreale, ma tutt'altro che irrazionale. I vigneti hanno l'aspetto che hanno perché sono stati adattati alle sfide specifiche del loro ambiente da generazioni di ingegnosi viticoltori. Il fatto che la loro differenza radicale sia uno shock per quelli di noi svezzati dalle convenzioni della moderna viticoltura dell'Europa continentale è in gran parte dovuto al fatto che le Isole Canarie sono state lontane dal mainstream vinoso per così tanto tempo.
Non è sorprendente. A rigor di termini - geograficamente - parlando, le sette isole che insieme formano la regione vinicola più meridionale d'Europa fanno parte dell'Africa: raggruppate, a 28 ° di latitudine, al confine meridionale della tradizionale fascia di possibilità di vinificazione dell'emisfero settentrionale, con la costa atlantica marocchina sud-occidentale appena 96 km dalla costa sud-orientale di Fuerteventura. Tuttavia, culturalmente e politicamente questa è la Spagna, da quando le isole furono colonizzate e colonizzate alla fine del XV secolo.
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I vini delle Canarie e delle Baleari
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