La natura frammentata della Borgogna significa che i négociants sono il collante della regione -
e fonti di grande valore. Stephen Brook presenta i principali attori
perché dylan sta lasciando il giovane e l'irrequieto?
Anégociant a Bordeaux è un commerciante che trova mercati per i vini acquistati dal locale
produttori. Un négociant borgognone è molto diverso. Il suo ruolo è quello di assemblare vini da una varietà di fonti e poi venderli a clienti privati, importatori, ristoranti e rivenditori. I singoli coltivatori possono produrre ottimi vini, ma poiché le loro aziende possono spesso essere suddivise tra piccoli appezzamenti in molti vigneti, spesso non hanno i volumi per rifornire i clienti che necessitano di quantità maggiori. Il négociant acquisterà uva (e vinificherà) o mosto (e fermenterà) o vini finiti (e li farà maturare nelle loro cantine). Una rete di broker consente ai négociants di accedere a queste materie prime, oppure possono avere contratti con i coltivatori che le forniscono regolarmente. Possono quindi miscelare i vini risultanti, offrendo una quantità di vino più consistente rispetto a un singolo coltivatore.
Ma i négociants della Borgogna sono più che semplici frullatori e commercianti. Molti sono proprietari di proprietà importanti, che offrono sia vini di volume limitato dai propri domini, sia vini miscelati. Le uve acquistate da coltivatori eccezionali spesso si traducono in vini buoni come quelli prodotti dai vigneti dei négociants, dal momento che molte tenute di alto livello vendono regolarmente botti per mantenere il flusso di cassa.
Né è chiara la distinzione tra un coltivatore e un négociant. Molti domini, incapaci di espandersi a causa dell'alto costo della terra, agiranno come négociants su piccola scala per aumentare la produzione. Non sembra esserci alcun requisito legale per differenziare i vini ottenuti da uve acquistate dai vini imbottigliati in domaine, sebbene in pratica molti coltivatori facciano questa distinzione. Così Domaine Dujac offre i suoi vini négociant con l'etichetta Dujac Père et Fils, e Domaine Robert Arnoux utilizza l'etichetta Pascal Lachaud per la sua eccellente gamma négociant.
Alcuni négociants producono ancora vini di carattere e identità, ma il loro numero sta diminuendo. Per la maggior parte, i vini négociant offrono un percorso di benvenuto in una regione che altrimenti potrebbe apparire poco accogliente sia in termini di complessità che di prezzi. Qui ci sono alcuni dei migliori:
I grandi nomi
tutta la stagione 16 episodio 7
Fondata nel 1731, Bouchard Père et Fils (Fel) è una delle aziende più antiche, ma all'inizio degli anni '90 è inciampata e la famiglia Bouchard l'ha immessa sul mercato. Il magnate dello champagne Joseph Henriot lo acquistò e agì rapidamente, declassificando o buttando via eventuali imbottigliamenti non all'altezza
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Scritto da Stephen Brook
Articoli Interessanti
