I cru dello Champagne si godono la loro esclusività, ma i suoi 17 vigneti grand cru rimangono in gran parte sconosciuti. GILES FALLOWFIELD chiede cosa ognuno porta in tavola e perché non compaiono sull'etichetta.
Lo Champagne ha molte somiglianze con la Borgogna, il suo vicino vigneto più vicino. I cru dello Champagne hanno in comune i vitigni Pinot Nero e Chardonnay e quindi, se si riesce a guardare oltre le bollicine dello Champagne, si producono vini con un profilo gustativo simile. Entrambi utilizzano lo stesso sistema di valutazione della qualità, con i migliori vigneti di ciascuna denominazione designati come grand cru e premier cru al livello successivo.
Tuttavia, mentre in Borgogna i termini grand e premier cru sono chiaramente scritti sulle etichette della stragrande maggioranza dei vini autorizzati a utilizzarli, non compaiono su molte bottiglie di Champagne. In parte perché nell'era moderna, le vendite dei cru dello Champagne sono dominate da marchi come Moët & Chandon, Laurent-Perrier e Veuve Clicquot. Di conseguenza, il concetto di champagne grand cru non è stato realmente sviluppato. Ma è più probabile che i consumatori incontrino questi termini in futuro.
Allora cos'è lo Champagne grand cru, perché non vengono venduti più vini come tali? E perché i migliori vigneti della Champagne non sono così famosi come Chambertin, Clos Vougeot e Le Montrachet?
In Champagne, tutti i 318 villaggi sono classificati di qualità nel sistema Echelle des Crus (letteralmente 'scala di crescita') e hanno un punteggio di classificazione compreso tra il 100 e l'80% (il punteggio più basso). Circa 257 di questi sono valutati da qualche parte tra 80 e 89. Un gradino più in alto sono i 44 premiers crus, che vanno nella loro classificazione da 90 a 99. In cima alla pila sono i 17 villaggi grand cru, tutti valutati al 100% sull'Echelle des Crus.
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