La gerarchia della Borgogna risale a quella di Bordeaux, ma si basa sulla denominazione piuttosto che sul produttore. Benjamin Lewin MW indaga se la classificazione per terroir resista alla prova del tempo
Chicago p.d. stagione 1 episodio 12
Due eventi nel 1855 stabilirono stili contrastanti per classificare il vino e le loro conseguenze si sono riverberate da allora. La più nota è la classificazione dei vini del Médoc: la classificazione del 1855 non solo domina ancora i vini della Rive Gauche, ma ha fatto della classificazione per prezzo il modello di tutti i vini di Bordeaux.
Meno noto che nello stesso anno Lavalle pubblicò il suo Plan Topographique della Côte d'Or della Borgogna, una mappa dettagliata di ogni vigneto da Santenay a Dijon, classificandoli come Tête de Cuvée, Première, Deuxième e persino Troisième Cuvée.
Questa è stata la base per mappare la Côte d'Or in più di 400 denominazioni quando è stato introdotto il sistema di denominazione contrôlée nel 1936. Oggi, ogni vigneto in Borgogna ha il suo posto in una gerarchia che discende dal grand cru, al premier cru, al vino del villaggio , fino alla generica Borgogna.
Nessuna delle due classificazioni era intesa come una descrizione contemporanea dello status quo, ma entrambe furono scolpite nella pietra. Dal 1855, il Bordeaux è stato classificato per prezzo, mentre la Borgogna è stata classificata per terroir. Nel mio sguardo al Bordeaux (Decanter, gennaio 2010), la classifica per prezzo non invecchia bene per più di un decennio. Allora come si regge la classificazione per terroir nel corso dei secoli?
Evoluzione dei prezzi
Tutta la classificazione inizia con il prezzo. La prima classificazione in Borgogna si basava sul prezzo medio che il vino di ciascuna zona otteneva nel 19 ° secolo. I vini erano venduti a quel tempo dai négociants con poca attenzione ai singoli produttori, ei prezzi erano basati su aree definite in modo più ampio di quelli di oggi.
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