Le anfore spagnole conosciute come tinajas hanno preso il posto delle barriques della cantina Elisabetta Foradori in Trentino
- Punti salienti
- Articoli sul vino a lunga lettura
- Rivista: numero di maggio 2018
Simon Woolf indaga sulle notizie di una controrivoluzione nelle cantine italiane ...
C'è un momento breve ma drammatico nel film del 2014 di Paolo Casalis Barolo Boys: la storia di una rivoluzione quando l'enologo Elio Altare porta una motosega a un'imponente linea di botti (tradizionali grandi botti di rovere) che si trova nella cantina della sua famiglia.
La sua distruzione rituale di questi venerabili vasi, avvenuta nel 1983, aveva uno scopo pratico: fare spazio a barriques di rovere francese più piccole e appena acquistate. Ma il potente simbolismo era chiaro: i presunti fetidi botti in decomposizione rappresentavano il vecchio ordine. Linee di barriques perfette e di nuova lavorazione trasmettono un chiaro messaggio di modernità e stile.
Scorri verso il basso per vedere la selezione Woolf di vini italiani realizzati senza rovere
Ciò che sembrava all'avanguardia nel 1983 era diventato di rigore per prestigiose cantine italiane alla fine degli anni '90. Ma più recentemente è caduta in disgrazia la decisa carezza di quercia della barrique, dal Friuli a nord-est alla Sicilia a sud e tutti i punti intermedi.
I produttori di vino italiani stanno passando sempre più a materiali e recipienti alternativi per la fermentazione e l'invecchiamento, che vanno dall'arcano al definitivo outré.
Dove una volta c'erano le barrique, ora potrebbero esserci anfore, qvevris georgiani, uova di cemento o grandi botti di acacia. È solo il tran tran ciclico del tapis roulant della moda o parte di un movimento più deciso verso una maggiore autenticità ed espressione?
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Le note di degustazione e i punteggi di Woolf per una selezione di vini italiani senza rovere:
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