Il 1982, considerato da molti come la più grande annata dei tempi moderni, ha visto gli Stati Uniti
assapora il gusto dell'en primeur, e i bordolesi scoprono la maturità. Venticinque
anni dopo il primo assaggio, NICHOLAS FAITH torna indietro nel tempo
Il 1982, considerato da molti come la più grande annata dei tempi moderni, ha visto gli Stati Uniti assaporare il gusto per l'en primeur ei Bordelais hanno scoperto la maturità. Venticinque anni dopo il primo assaggio, Nicholas Faith torna indietro nel tempo.
Il Annata 1982 non sarebbe mai stato normale. Per cominciare, come Christian Moueix (ora di Pétrus, poi della sua ditta négociant di famiglia, JP Moueix) sottolinea: 'Era un'estate perfetta, come quelle del 1989 e del 2005'.
Per Jean-Bernard Delmas, allora direttore di Haut-Brion, 'Era un'estate da poltrona, calda e secca, quindi non c'erano malattie, né insetti a preoccuparci'. Non stava esagerando. L'inverno era stato mite, aprile secco e soleggiato e, a parte qualche grandinata sparsa, maggio era altrettanto promettente. Giugno e luglio hanno fornito un ottimo mix, anche se molto caldo, di sole e rovesci, mentre agosto e inizio settembre, con temperature a 30 ° C, non hanno fatto nulla per danneggiare le uve o impedire una vendemmia anticipata - a partire dal 15 settembre, anche al nord Médoc. Il risultato è stato un Merlot con più del 13% di alcol potenziale, anche più fine del Cabernet che ha raggiunto più del 12% - livelli allora ritenuti notevoli.
Non è stata la prima annata del dopoguerra di questo tipo. Il 1959 è stato potenzialmente altrettanto buono, però
a causa della produzione di vino di scarsa qualità all'epoca, 'la metà finì come aceto', ha detto Moueix. Nel 1982 'tutto era facile'. Per suo padre, il leggendario Jean-Pierre, il Pétrus di quell'anno assomigliava al 1947, ma con due grandi differenze: sì, era 'concentrato e potente', ma era 'meno denso' del suo predecessore. Un commento quasi incredibile per me, dato che il Pétrus del 1982 che ho assaggiato all'inizio del 1983 era il chiaretto più denso e concentrato che abbia mai avuto.
Tuttavia, ogni commentatore osserva come il perfetto equilibrio di questi vini significhi che sono, nelle parole di un esperto poetico 'come grandi uomini che ballano leggeri'. L'uva poteva essere matura e l'estate calda, ma non era calda come nel 1947, quindi non c'era alcun segno del sapore bruciato che contraddistingueva i vini. Tuttavia, la maturità delle uve e il calore al momento della vendemmia richiedevano un'adeguata attrezzatura di raffreddamento, che solo poche tenute avevano. Allo Château Margaux, il normalmente imperturbabile Emile Peynaud fu preso dal panico, preoccupato che le temperature eccessive nei vecchi tini di legno del castello avrebbero fermato la fermentazione. Ha telefonato a Corinne Mentzelopoulos, che gestisce la tenuta dopo la morte di suo padre André
l'anno precedente e le ha chiesto di autorizzare l'acquisto di £ 20.000 di pompe di raffreddamento.
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- Vedi anche: David Peppercorn's Rapporto dell'annata di Bordeaux dal 1982 al 2005
- Per ulteriori informazioni sulle annate di vino di Bordeaux e di tutto il mondo, vedere decanter.com 'S Guide d'epoca pagina Scritto da Nicholas Faith
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