Bordeaux 2010 Lafite Rothschild
Cos'è quel pong? LINDA MURPHY esamina il tanto calunniato, incompreso ma, in alcuni ambienti, apprezzato, mondo di Brettanomyces.
Nel primo anno della mia carriera enologica, ho versato vino a una mostra delle migliori bottiglie di tutto il mondo. Durante una pausa dallo stand, sono andato in giro per la stanza per assaggiare molte delle altre offerte.
Quando sono tornato al mio tavolo, l'enologo accanto a me mi ha chiesto: 'Ti ha davvero colpito qualcosa?' 'Lo Châteauneuf-du-Pape del 1989 di Château de Beaucastel', ho risposto. Ridacchiò: `` Devi amare Brett. '' Anche se non sapevo cosa fosse Brett - Brettanomyces (breh-tan-uh-MYE-vede) - a quel tempo, ho adorato il carattere terroso, coriaceo, affumicato e speziato di Beaucastel , frutto carnoso e struttura soda.
Avrei poi appreso che Brett, un lievito naturale che non è dannoso da consumare ma può fare sia cose buone che cattive agli aromi e ai sapori del vino, sarebbe un argomento caldo tra i produttori di vino, senza un chiaro vincitore nel dibattito.
I viticoltori la chiamano la 'parola B' e, nella migliore delle ipotesi, Brettanomyces può dare al vino quelli che molti credono essere attributi positivi che aggiungono complessità e profondità: sapori terrosi di pelle di guanto, carne affumicata, grasso di pancetta, tabacco, tartufo, chiodi di garofano e altre salate spezie.
Tuttavia, quando B diventa cattivo, può dare al vino l'odore offensivo di cortile, letame, cerotti, cane bagnato, coperta di cavallo sudata, escrementi di topo e antisettico. Temendo quest'ultimo, molti produttori di vino in tutto il mondo fanno tutto il possibile per prevenire la contaminazione di Brett.
Altri ne incoraggiano un po ', per quel pizzico di interesse in più, ma devono lavorare sodo in modo che il lievito selvaggio non sopraffi il carattere varietale e il fruttato. Altri, beh, diciamo solo che se la pulizia è accanto alla devozione, alcuni viticoltori non vanno in chiesa. Coloro che sostengono il goût de terroir per i loro sgradevoli imbottigliamenti stanno semplicemente cercando scuse per pratiche antigeniche.
Amico o nemico?
Ci sono più ceppi di - e teorie su - Brettanomyces, e una discussione completa richiede una tesi di microbiologia. Più semplicemente, ci sono due composti che alterano il vino identificati con Brett: 4-etil guaiacolo (4-eg), che contribuisce a ciò che molti pensano a pancetta e spezie e 4-etilfenolo 4-ep), con i suoi cerotti negativi, cane bagnato e caratteristiche medicinali.
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Articoli Interessanti
